As happens for many inland cities, the ship actually docks in a different port. Oft times these ports are dirty, gritty industrial ports that serve many masters, only one of which is the cruise industry. For our stop in Edinburgh the ship docked in the port of Leith. It is prettier and cleaner than most with a less industrial vibe. We dropped anchor offshore and tendered into the port. As our tender pulled up to the pier we were greeted by a lone piper, the sweet notes of her bagpipe welcoming us with this most Scottish display of national pride. Suddenly that port become the most welcoming I have ever attended.
For our first visit to Edinburg we stuck to the sites recommended for tourists and found this to be an easy and interesting day. The Leith Ocean Terminal is home to the Royal Yacht Britannica. It is a good idea to start or end your day with a tour of this ship, especially if you follow the Royals as it offers a rare insight into their private lives. From Leith it is a quick taxi ride into the city of Edinburgh. We found a taxi stand at the end of the pier and joined another couple from our ship to share the cost of £10.
We asked the driver drop us off at Edinburg Castle which sits atop the Royal Mile, a stretch of road that leads to the Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom. Along the way are great historical and modern sites, cozy pubs and lots of shops. We took a brief side trip off the Royal Mile to visit the Scottish National Gallery which was only a couple of blocks away.
Edinburg Castle was built atop a natural rock outcropping and has been used as a protective fortress since before recorded time. The tour includes the Royal Apartments, the Crown Jewels and a Romanesque Chapel. Also take the time to pause at the National War Memorial and tour the Military Museums to help understand the Scottish involvement in many conflicts throughout time. We had pre-purchased entry tickets online before leaving home which granted us immediate access to the Castle after passing through the security check. These tickets are timed so be sure to allow for tendering and travel time to the site. Once inside you can join a tour or wander on your own.
The Scottish National Gallery is worth the time if you appreciate art and art history. The Gallery is free (although you can make a donation) and offers many well-known paintings and artists from 1000 – 1700, including local Scottish artists. The National Museum of Scotland is also only a few blocks off the Mile in the opposite direction.
Back on the Royal Mile there are a number of interesting stops including minor museums, historic homes, churches and their notable cemeteries. Read up on these before you go so you can make time for the ones you are most interested in. Be sure to include time to tour St. Giles Cathedral, which is filled with statutes, monuments and plaques dedicated to great Scots and their history. The Chapel of the Knights of the Thistle (which may have an entry fee) is beautifully adorned, and includes carved wooden cherubs playing the bagpipes, a truly Scottish version of heaven.
Despite the Royal Mile being a very touristy area we found the prices in the shops to be competitive with other places we had visited in Scotland so it made buying more souvenirs an easy decision. Also the small pub were we stopped for lunch was not crowded and offered an excellent meal with great service for a price far less than we expected to pay for the area.
The Palace of Holyroodhouse at the bottom of the Royal Mile is the residence of the Queen when she visits Scotland, and was our final stop. If the Royal family is not in residence you can visit the palace and the surrounding gardens for a fee. In one of the rooms there was a small framed picture of the Queen sitting with Charles, Will and baby George. It somehow made the Royal family seem more accessible, more real to me as I have a similar four generation picture displayed in my home. Funny how something as inconsequential can have an emotional impact.
The capital of Scotland deserves more than just one day. We were travelling with friends and their experience in Edinburg was completely different from our own, highlighting for us just how much there is to see and do. We would love to return again someday and hopefully will get the chance, whether it is on another cruise or as part of a tour of the United Kingdom.