Solo Travel with Renee
On April 15, 2019, the world watched in horror as Notre Dame Cathedral was engulfed in flames, an omen of darker things to come. People wondered how Paris would ever recover from the loss of their treasured landmark.
That November, I arrived in Paris at the height of the Jaune Gilets rioting against rising prices, wages and governmental policies. Businesses were being vandalized, windows smashed, and every day one had to avoid the hot spots where trouble was fomenting. Rotating train and metro strikes were constraining Parisians’ mobility and patience. Planning to celebrate my 60th birthday in style, I was concerned on how all this would impact my experience. Yet despite dreary weather, roiling social strife and the brooding, charred remnant of Notre Dame, Paris still unfolded as the timeless City of Light, full of romantic charm.
In the shadow of the burnt Cathedral, sounds of machinery and workmen filled the air as pigeons and doves flitted in and out of the scaffolding covering its face. Tourists ringed the site, raising phones to take a picture of Paris’ resilience. Speaking with shopkeepers and passersby, I was struck by their blithe confidence that Paris had survived two World Wars and a Revolution, and Notre Dame would grace the banks of the Seine again.
Paris endeared itself to me as I wandered around the ancient arrondisements and fabled streets. I happily discovered that Parisians really do sport berets and carry baguettes in baskets or tucked under an arm. Pavements were packed with bistros, delicatessens and bakeries where edible marvels were displayed like precious jewels. Specialty shops turned buying a bottle of wine or wedge of cheese into a French geography lesson as well as an epicurean revelation.
One afternoon, I stopped a young woman for directions. She said “You want to see the real Paris? Throw away the map and just walk”. This priceless travel tip had me stumbling across many serendipitous finds.
Savouring a café and pastry at a cozily heated outdoor bistro, I often enjoyed conversations with other patrons, dispelling the myth that the French are cold and rude. In Europe, people tend to be more formal and reserved, often misinterpreted by more easy-going North Americans. In my travels, people usually respond favourably with the correct dose of etiquette and politesse.
As a solo traveler, I was welcomed warmly in eating establishments throughout this capital of cuisine. One evening, I was seated at a counter overlooking the chef’s preparation area. It was pure theatre watching the dance between cooks and servers, and the Chef spoiled me with delectable samples.
I spent my birthday wandering around Les Jardins des Plants in the fifth arrondissement, the sun pouring down on an outdoor display of 
fantastical sea creatures. After a celebratory dinner of steak frites and Champagne, I headed to the lively Rue Rivoli to see the Christmas Market. The air was filled with fairy lights, savoury aromas and laughter while the glittering Tour D’Eiffel beamed over the city.
Four months passed to reveal a bleaker scenario: airplanes grounded, hotels shuttered and travel plans put off indefinitely as people navigated new realities at home instead. We wonder if the world will still be ‘out there’ when we are finally able to venture past our borders, or if it too, will be irrevocably scarred.
But I know in my heart that we will always have Paris.
PARIS – Brought To You By The Letter ‘M’
MUSEE D’ORSAY – delightful alternative to the Louvre, smaller crowds. See Degas’ Little Dancer, Whistler’s Mother and the iconic Clock (read AOAT’s May 9th blog for more). https://www.musee-orsay.fr/
MALMAISON – take a day to explore Empress Josephine’s chateau, filled with exquisite décor (the carved swan chairs were my favourite). https://www.napoleon.org/
PLACE MONGE – a lively street market of 40 plus stalls – go early! 5th Arrondisement.
Le METRO – Easy to use, clean and safe. Buy a pass for the most economical way to get around Paris. https://www.ratp.fr/
Le MARAIS – eclectic medieval district with legendary falafel joints and upscale boutiques. Le Shoah, the Holocaust Memorial Museum, provides a thoughtful pause.https://www.aparisguide.com/lemarais/
Rue MOUFFETARD – the essence of Paris street life and a charming neighbourhood to explore; excellent eateries. .https://www.thegoodlifefrance.com/rue-mouffetard-the-oldest-street-in-paris/
Rue MONTORGUEIL – vibrant pedestrian market area; often overlooked by tourists https://infos.parisattitude.com/en/montorgueil/