One cannot spend time in Germany without eventually running across a beer garden. Even if you do not drink beer, they are an important cultural and historical aspect of German society and should be explored. They are also a ton of fun!
If you spend time in the tourist areas of a city like Munich you will undoubtedly end up in a touristy beer garden, such as the Hofbrauhaus or the Viktulianmarkt Garden. Please be sure to include these on your agenda. However find that off the beaten path beer garden where the locals, and the more adventurous visitors, hang out.
Our hotel was near the Augustiner Keller so that became our destination of choice offering tons of shade covered tables, convivial company and an extensive menu of traditional German food. Considered to be one of the oldest breweries in Bavaria, the Augustiner Keller shows up on maps as early as 1812. It is only one of Munich’s six major breweries.
Beer gardens originated in the early 19th century in Germany as an extension of the brewery. It was illegal to operate over the summer months for fear of fire resulting from the fermentation process. To sidestep this rule brewers dug cellars along river banks to store their beer in a cool place to ferment in the summer. The cellars were covered in gravel and trees were planted to keep the beer shaded. The most common was the large shady chestnut trees as the have shallow roots and dense leaves.
Eventually the Bavarian King Ludwig granted breweries the right to sell their beer directly from their cellars. Tables and benches were set up nearby and designated as “beer gardens”. At first it was illegal to sell food to their patrons so Germans just brought their own. Eventually the ban was lifted and the breweries started offering traditional and hearty food. It is still acceptable to bring a picnic to a beer garden, as long as you buy a beer.
Although there were some healthy options available the menu tends to offer variations of pork, potatoes and cabbage, the traditional German fare. Sausages, schnitzel, roast pork and pork knuckles were served with potato dumplings or warm potato salad. Large doughy, salted pretzels were common appetizers and the desserts were apple strudel with cream or German chocolate cake. Along with beer (there was only one brand and one size – a full litre) you could also get a sampling of traditional schnapps. Despite what may appear to be a limited menu we still found something amazing to try every night. For the very adventurous try the steckerlfisch for an appetizer.
Although we drink our beer on patios in the summer, Canada does not have traditional beer gardens because of our colder climate and biting insects. I’ve never hated mosquitoes more!
Next time you are in Germany, especially Munich, be sure to stop by a beer garden for lunch, dinner, or just to people watch. You will never be disappointed.