Solo Travel with RENEE BORG
British Columbia has been constantly at the forefront in the media, from raging fires and floods to homelessness and an overdose pandemic. Yet Vancouver is a vibrant, diverse city with much to offer the solo traveller. Against a breathtaking backdrop of mountains, it is a perfect destination for travellers who want to spread their wings post pandemic, yet stay within Canada.
I arrived during a downpour, greeted at the airport by a massive carved owl with spread wings. This introduced me to the compelling Indigenous art woven into Vancouver’s visual environment – from totem poles at Stanley Park, to vivid murals, architectural details in unexpected places and painted mailboxes on the city’s streets. I also quickly learned how Vancouverites coped with rainy days, from permanent awnings shielding pavements throughout the commercial district to distinct raingear and a cheerful spirit of besting the weather. From every view, the mountains, with their toppings of fluffernutter clouds, beckon in the distance.
Despite the wet arrival, the sun brilliantly illuminated the fall colours next day as I walked along the Sea Wall to Stanley Park, accompanied by joggers and dogwalkers. This enormous thousand-acre West Coast rainforest preserve is a nature lover’s dream – trails to hike on, brilliant birdsong, horse-drawn carriage and train rides, lookout points and the aforementioned Totem pole park where these expressive masterworks loom large. There are restaurants and washroom facilities as well as picnic tables for an al fresco lunch.
Vancouverites love the outdoors and active recreation is a major lifestyle here. Yet it is also a major metropolis with
plenty of shopping, culture and events. A walker’s delight, downtown Vancouver is crammed with boutiques, art galleries, cafes and restaurants. I visited the Vancouver Library with its stunning architectural features by Moishe Safdie, climbing to the top floor observation deck and garden to get some gorgeous photos. I also toured the Vancouver Art Gallery, scored some fabulous finds at the Vancouver Flea Market, and spent several evenings exploring Gastown with its excellent gastropubs, bars and iconic Steaming Clock, which whistles and spews the vapour on the hour to the amusement of passersby.
Spending a day at Granville Island is a must. This vibrant conglomerate of bakeries, a brewery, butcher and food specialty shops, artisan studios, theatres, galleries and boutiques isn’t a real island, but an urban oasis in the middle of the city, easy to reach on the #50 bus.
Vancouver’s Chinatown is bustling with exotic sights, sounds and smells to explore. In the heart of this pulsing neighbourhood, amongst traditional Chinese groceries, restaurants and shops, the Dr. Yat-Sen Gardens is an oasis of tranquility and beauty. I spent several hours here with camera and sketchbook, trying to capture the spirit of the exquisite layout of the ornate gardens. There is also an informative display inside of whimsical china figures, vases and writing instruments for calligraphy. A free booklet concisely explains the contemplative art of building a classical Chinese garden ‘where one can relax and be close to nature’ – a panacea for busy travellers indeed.
Later, I sought out Chef Andrew Han’s Kouign Café on Pender Street. This upcoming star chef opened his signature café in 2020 and continues to wow with his unique fusions of European classical cooking with Asian cuisine. The White Rabbit Cookies are to die for!
Another afternoon, I enjoyed a pastry and pot of Jasmine tea at the New Town Bakery, a Chinatown institution, where the cheery orange-clad servers and matching retro décor brightened a dull, rainy day.
The Museum of Anthropology, situated at the University of British Columbia, introduced me to the late artist Bill Reid’s masterworks amongst the wealth of Indigenous art and artifacts. The Raven and the First Men, a massive wooden sculpture showcased in its own viewing space, was his interpretation of a Haida legend of the Raven discovering men being formed within a clamshell. This jaw-dropping work is reason alone to make the trip out to UBC, but there is also a Bill Reid gallery downtown on Hornby Street that showcases more of his works along with exhibits from contemporary Indigenous artists.
I’ve barely touched on the extensive list of activities in Vancouver – such as trips to Grouse Mountain and the famous Capilano Suspension bridge (not available due to the weather and time of year) and, with so much more to discover, I know that I will be planning another fabulous trip to Vancouver in the very near future.