Solo Travel with Renee
My first glimpse of Scotland was of an intensely blue North Sea, emerald green fields and craggy rocks cradling an ancient ruin. Stray sunbeams shot across a sullen canopy of clouds, illuminating the view from my train window.
Scotland has been the romantic setting of stories and music from classical literature, folklore, movies and TV shows such as Outlander. It is a land of crumbling romantic castles, turbulent history, unforgettable people, delectable cuisine, and breathtaking waterfalls, rivers and lakes, including the famous Lochs Lomond and Ness. Picturesque villages are tucked amongst mist-shrouded dales and hillsides, and poignant sites like Culloden bring epic tales and historical legends home.
Edinburgh is a revelation for the historian, royal-watcher or literature buff. From Edinburgh Castle to the bottom of the Royal Mile and Holyrood Palace unfold shops carrying everything from tweed caps and sumptuous knits to traditional Scottish wear; scrumptious bakeries, lively pubs and restaurants, bookshops filled with both antique tomes and latest bestsellers and stunning jewelers. Most of Edinburgh’s main attractions are along this medieval thoroughfare. You may catch a busker troupe’s antics or a lone bagpiper heralding the sunset, relive the stories of Mary, Queen of Scots or sample some award-winning chocolates.
Time your arrival at Edinburgh Castle at the top end of the Mile to hear the one o’clock blasts from Mons Meg, a giant cannon relic from the fifteenth century. Seek out the statue of Greyfriars Bobby in the Greyfriars Kirkyard, a noble little dog who guarded his master’s grave for fourteen years.
The fall weather in Scotland can be very unpredictable except for one certainty: it will rain! However, activities for inclement weather abound: The National Museum of Scotland, Scottish National Portrait Gallery, Writer’s Museum (featuring manuscripts and memorabilia of Robert Burns, Sir Walter Scott and R. L. Stevenson), The Scottish Poetry Library and The People’s Story Museum are all free.
The Scottish Parliament buildings are a fabulous example of modern architecture and admission is also free. You can take the elevator up to the Gallery to hear the political debates after getting tickets first at www.parliament.scot; there are also one-hour tours, a lovely gift shop and café.
Another compelling place to visit is the Surgeon’s Hall and Dental Museum; a mesmerizing history of surgery and dentistry, though some of the exhibits of tools and specimens are a bit gruesome! http://rcsed.ac.uk
St. Giles cathedral, located in the center of the Royal Mile, was the late Queen’s place of worship while visiting. They hold evening concerts and the church is open for touring as well. See if you can find the bagpipe-playing angel amongst the carved Gothic stalls and vaulted ceiling.
Climbing the infamous Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park was a huge challenge and a popular activity for locals and tourists alike. Make sure you have visited a washroom before you begin the long climb up this rocky peak, and take snacks and bottled water with you – there are no concessions or toilet facilities. Good sturdy footwear is essential and a walking stick would be helpful; dress warmly or carry a windbreaker – the strong wind can be cool. I had to turn back two-thirds of the way up, unable to walk further against the ceaseless, merciless wind. Serendipitously I came across a beautiful old ruin where I stopped for my picnic lunch and enjoyed the breathtaking views.
Hospitality is very important to the Scots, and I was warmly welcomed by hosts Kevin and Susan at the Ceilidh-
Donia B & B. As a solo traveller, I was given great advice regarding local attractions and meal options with attention for my safety and comfort. Their signature Scottish breakfasts rivalled any from home or abroad and included Haggis (which tasted like sausage) as well as fluffy scones and porridge painstakingly whisked with milk. But the glory of Scottish cuisine is undoubtedly the incredible baking, from black Guinness cake smothered with the darkest chocolate icing to Cardamom Pistachio scones and shortbread to die for. Afternoon Tea at the Scottish National Gallery was a lavish affair, served by an excellent, attentive staff.
Afterward, I strolled down Princes Street, rimmed with exclusive shops, and spent a reflective moment by the Sir Walter Scott Monument, an iconic symbol of the Scots’ reverence for their authors. A poignant Remembrance Day display showing clan involvement during both World Wars included art by schoolchildren. It was a fitting end to my last evening in Edinburgh; I was next headed for Inverness and more Scottish adventures.