Naples is a essential stop on many Mediterranean cruise itineraries, and for good reason. It is from there that travelers can visit the archaeological site of Pompeii, or the winding steep cliffs and quaint Italian villages on the Amalfi Coast. There is also a direct route to spend time on the island of Capri should you so desire. Then there is the city of Naples itself, a gritty, crowded, often dirty city that apologies to no one, but offers some of the best travel moments to those willing to take the risk.
If you have been to Pompeii you need to visit the National Archeological Museum of Naples. Located an easy bus or taxi ride from the port this beautiful building houses most of the treasures recovered from Pompeii. It offers mosaics, frescoes, coins and statuary that helps to understand the history of the region. Open 9 am to 7.30 pm except for Tuesdays and only €20 to visit it is a great addition to your visit.
To see more of the city we joined a Hop On / Hop Off bus tour that took us through the dense and crowded historical centre. The roads were narrow and cobbled and busy. The slower moving bus allowed us to really see the historic squares, statutes, and churches, and some amazing people watching in the process.
From there we drove out of the city and along the curving coastline until the centre of town was but a jumble of buildings cascading down the hill. The beauty and serenity of the Bay of Naples was breathtaking, in complete contrast to the bustle of the city centre. It was clear that day so we could see Mount Vesuvius in the distance, and the island of Capri further on. This part of Naples was predominately residential with beautiful neighbourhoods stacked on top of one another up the side of the hills that surrounded the bay. We saw older ramparts and castles and reminiscent of its past, along side newer developments heralding its future.
After our drive we found a small restaurant, the San Carlo Trattoria, and fully embraced our role as tourists as we ordered Margherita pizzas and cold local beers before finishing with a chilled shot of Limoncello, the tart, sweet liquor of southern Italy. Naples is credited as being the birthplace of pizza. Ours was wood-fired perfection with tangy sauce, melted fresh mozzarella that tastes like nothing I have ever had in Canada, and fresh leaves of basil. If you do nothing else on your trip to Naples, enjoy the pizza!
We have stopped in the port of Naples a few times in the past and I have always looked forward to it. This time around I fell in love with the city itself. I overheard many fellow passengers complain about Naples but I bet few saw all sides of it. Do yourself a favour next time you visit and explore the city.
We enjoyed the Limoncello so much we tried making it at home. It was easy to do and the results were surprisingly good. I could close my eyes and pretend I was back in Italy. I have linked to the recipe we used here.