Pena Palace is a common post card picture from Portugal. The bright yellow and red palace located high in the mountains is located just outside of Sintra, a quaint village an easy day trip from the capital. On the day we visited Sintra we were unable to visit Pena Palace due to a recent storm that had knocked down trees making access to the palace unsafe. Apparently this is a common occurrence on this tour. I start by explaining all this to state that even if that happens do not lament, as the alternative was amazing.
Our visit started with a tour of the National Palace of Queluz, often referred to as the Versailles of Portugal. Still decorated in over the top rococo from the Napoleon occupation it is a riot of gold leaf, crystal chandeliers and lots of mirrors. The best part however is the gorgeous gardens surrounding the palace with greenhouses that still grow pineapples (an export from Brazil during their occupation) to sports courts and waterfalls.
From there we travelled the short distance to Sintra, an old town that was the summer home for the wealthy and royal. Located high on a mountain the area is much cooler than the city so a great hot weather destination. Along with the Pena Palace there is also a large castle ruin from when the Moors occupied Spain and Portugal located higher up in the mountains yet still visible from town.
We had free time to explore the heart of the village and have lunch. The shops and restaurants were fun and offered all the usual fare; tourist priced meals and kitschy souvenirs. I would recommend visiting a bakery to try one of the traditional pastries from the area. I cannot remember the name but they were filled with a cream of eggs and almonds. Lively street musicians and a cold glass of the local beer made for a relaxing time.
After lunch we walked a short distance to visit Quinta de Regaliera, a gothic home built in the 19th century and home of the famous “Initiation Well”. The well was used in Freemasonry ceremonies. Descent into the well and ascent through a waterfall signified a cleansing of the sins and rebirth. Open to the public, you too can climb down the spiral well and ascent, not through the waterfall, but above it. It was truly a dramatic experience.
Along with the well, which was indeed the highlight, we were able to explore the rest of the gardens, an outdoor theatre, chapel and the house.
Our guide Carlos was amazing and the small group allowed for lots of questions and personal interaction. Even though the bus was late Carlos made up for it by treating us to the local pastries. It was a great example of how a good guide can make the best of a tour that was not quite “as advertised”.
This day trip from Lisbon is a must do for anyone with an extra day in Portugal.